The first time I went to Philomena’s Pizza, it was a cold, freezing January day. My friend and I had been on an all-day self-made food crawl through Sunnyside, but the weather really had it out for us. After walking in the wrong direction against freezing rain, we contemplated giving up and going to the 7 train to call it, but we pushed through, all in the name of a slice of ‘za. When we arrived at Philomena’s, a lovely man working behind the counter told me I looked like a rock star, thanks to my wet fur coat and completely smudged, dripping eyeliner as a result of the horrid weather outside. He was funny and warm. I peaked in their glass case and saw a wide array of slices, with a square slice topped with broccoli rabe looking particularly appealing. Another employee working told me that slice was vegan, with a chickpea puree base instead of sauce. Intrigued, I went for that and a margherita square. Maybe it was the relief of finally not being outside anymore, but the chickpea and broccoli rabe slice ended up being the most memorable thing I ate all day, which is really saying something for a neighborhood with a food scene as diverse as Sunnyside‘s. I was impressed by the innovation of making a vegan slice with real ingredients as opposed to fake meats and cheeses. I switched over to the regular, non-vegan slice, and was equally as pleasantly surprised by how bright and acidic the tomato sauce at Philomena’s was. But what really stood out to me about both slices was the dough. How on earth did they get it to be so airy yet so crisp? Kaitlyn RosatiThe broccoli rabe and chickpea slice at Philomena’s Pizza. (Kaitlyn Rosati) Since then, anytime I’m in the neighborhood, I make it a point to swing by Philomena’s, which opened in December 2018. I’ve learned they only have the chickpea and broccoli rabe slice on the weekends, but luckily, I’ve had the opportunity to try plenty of other great offerings, and have yet to be disappointed by any of them. Recently, I swung by Philomena’s to ask Dave Acocella, the owner (the same man who told me I looked like a rock star) what the secret is behind their dough. “Well, we buy in bulk from Costco,” he said, facetiously. I stared for a second. “Ah ha! I just wanted to make sure you’re listening,” he joked. Instead, he told me they ferment the dough — which is homemade and not from Costco, for the record — for at least 72 hours. This process creates an incredibly airy dough that can best be described as a crispy cloud. They offer both round and square pies, and each dough has a different process. For the square, they use a starter from the round. Kaitlyn RosatiThe fiori di zucca slice at Philomena’s Pizza. (Kaitlyn Rosati) While we’re talking, Dave offers to make me a pie with some fresh fiori di zucca, otherwise known as squash blossoms. I gladly accept. One of my favorite things about Philomena’s is how imaginative their slices are, and the zucchini flower pie I witnessed Dave assemble really drove the point home. He drew inspiration from Da Silvano, a Greenwich Village institution (which is now closed), where Silvano Marchetta would put a singular caper inside a zucchini flower for one of the eatery’s dishes. The fiori di zucca pie at Philomena’s was made with sliced garlic, capers, fior di latte cheese, ricotta, mozzarella, and of course, squash blossoms. The result was an incredibly cheesy bite, with a nice pungency from the thick garlic chips, a zing from the capers, and the absolute treat of eating flowers on pizza. Kaitlyn RosatiOwner Dave Acocella makes a zucchini flower pie at Philomena’s Pizza. (Kaitlyn Rosati) In a city where there are more pizzerias than arguably any other type of restaurant, Philomena’s manages to stand out nevertheless. From Dave’s charm to the usage of creative ingredients without trying to be something they’re not, to that incredible fermented crust, Philomena’s is proving that there is space for some newcomer pizzerias, even in a city that does it better than anywhere else. Address: 41-16 Queens Blvd, Sunnyside, NY 11104 Phone: 718-255-1778 Hours: Wednesday-Thursday 12 p.m.-9 p.m., Friday 12 p.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday 1 p.m.-10 p.m., Sunday 1 p.m.-9 p.m.; Closed Mondays & Tuesdays Prices: Personal 12 inch pies: $13-$18; 18 inch pies: $25-$33; Classic Slices $3-6; Square Slices $4.25-$6 Takeout and delivery available; no reservations. Have a suggestion for a great hidden dining gem in your neighborhood? Reach out to us with your recommendations [contact-form]