New Wave Bagel’s bacon, onion, and mushroom bialy. | Candice Woo This month’s standouts include a seafood platter, a sandwich, and standout bagels In this monthly column, your Eater San Diego editor and contributors will share standout dishes and drinks we’ve come across on our frequent dining expeditions. Have you come across a can’t-miss bite or sip? Send a rec to [email protected]. Bialys and Bagels From New Wave Bagel For a city of its size, San Diego is surprisingly short on real deal bagels. Launched earlier this year as a pop-up with brick-and-mortar goals, New Wave Bagel is powered by Cheryl Storms and Matt Cardwell, baking veterans who both worked at Wayfarer Bread & Pastry. With pre-order pickups at LuckyBolt Bakery in Sorrento Valley and weekend pop-ups at Ironsmith Coffee and Echale Wine Bar & Kitchen in Encinitas, New Wave’s bagels are based on naturally fermented sourdough, with flavors like marble rye, za’atar, and an innovative take on an everything bagel that subs in nutty nigella seeds for onion and garlic bits that often burn in the oven, offered with cream cheese and housemade creme fraiche schmears that include a dill-shallot version with smoked local halibut. If you’re a bialy fan, don’t miss the savory one topped with roasted mushrooms, caramelized onions, and bacon. Various locations. — Candice Woo, editor. Candice Woo Chawanmushi at Yakitori Tsuta. Chawanmushi at Yakitori Tsuta If you manage to score one of the small number of seats inside this intimate Japanese restaurant, you’re in for a treat. Yakitori is the main event here, with chef Tatsuro Tsuchiya grilling all parts of a chicken with the utmost skill, but beyond skewers, he also excels at traditional dishes including an elegant chawanmushi, or savory egg custard. Seasoned with homemade dashi and steamed until just set but still perfectly wobbly, the chawanmushi is topped with carefully chosen ingredients that change with the seasons. Scooping up the custard with a tiny wooden spoon feels like a sacred experience. The chawanmushi is included in Yaktori Tsuta’s omakase menu, offered at 5:30 p.m. or 8:15 p.m., or can be ordered a la carte during later reservations. 3860 Convoy Street, Ste 100. — Candice Woo, editor. Kelly Bone The Leftover sandwich at Ultreya Coffee & Tea. The Leftover Sandwich at Ultreya Coffee & Tea Every November, one of the College Area’s most iconic sandwiches makes a much-anticipated return. Ultreya Coffee’ & Tea’s “Leftover Sandwich” layers stuffing-flavored cream cheese, vegan sausage, melted vegan cheddar, a crispy hash brown, peppery arugula, and tangy-sweet cranberry sauce. This year, it’s served on locally milled whole wheat bread from Companion Bread, making it the best version yet. Available only through the end of the month, it’s a seasonal standout but ven after it’s gone, Ultreya’s diverse lineup of breakfast sandwiches and toasts — with the option to be served on this exceptional bread — will still be waiting for you. 4653 College Avenue. — Kelly Bone, contributor. Helen I. Hwang Lamb chops at Masala Street. Lamb Chop Kebabs at Masala Street This fast-casual restaurant was opened less than a year ago in the Encinitas Ranch Town Center by a former chef from Royal India and his wife, who serve scratch-made Indian dishes. In addition to a tangy chicken tikka masala, the lamb chops stood out as a star. They’re made to order, so be prepared for a wait that’s worth it. Masala Street cooks the lamb chops in a tandoori oven for 15 to 20 minutes until they’re barbecued to a perfect char and the meat is juicy and tender. The chops are paired with a generous portion of onions and peppers; be sure to get the house-made mint sauce for an extra kick. 1070 N. El Camino Real. – Helen I. Hwang, contributor Candice Woo The seafood platter. Seafood Platter From Chick & Hawk Chef Andrew Bachelier and crew took over Callie Restaurant for a night in November, giving guests a taste of what Chick & Hawk, his forthcoming Encinitas restaurant with skate legend Tony Hawk, might offer when it finally opens. With Callie owner Travis Swikard and staff all dressed in Chick & Hawk t-shirts, Bachelier showed what he can do in a kitchen that’s a lot bigger than his bite-sized one at Atelier Manna, where he manages to turn out seriously impressive food for a restaurant of any size. Besides serving up the Birdman, his take on a Nashville hot chicken sandwich, the alum of Addison and Jeune et Jolie previewed other dishes that could be on the menu including a sublime seafood platter that featured local yellowfin crudo, spiny lobster with vadouvan mayo, and maybe the single best bite of the month — an oyster cloaked in a silky horseradish cloud and topped with roasted beets. — 145 Leucadia Boulevard (opening Spring 2025). — Candice Woo, editor.