The 10-day-aged Ora King salmon is topped with salmon roe in a refreshing crudo. | Deb Lindsey The newest addition to Clyde’s Restaurant Group swims into the rapidly expanding neighborhood on November 20. A seafood mecca lands in Union Market this week. The newest member of the expansive Clyde’s Restaurant Group, Cordelia Fishbar opens Wednesday, November 20. Cordelia will serve as the first truly seafood-centric eatery in the group’s portfolio, with a menu that emphasizes charcoal grilling, fish aging, and (of course) an extensive raw bar. (550 Morse Street NE). While Clyde’s Restaurant Group is perhaps best known for its wide-ranging menus at large dining destinations like Old Ebbitt Grill, the Hamilton, and of course, Clyde’s, Cordelia — the group’s 14th location to date — is a bit of a departure from the norm. For starters, the restaurant has a sense of whimsy and hominess that is apparent both in the food and the ambience. “I’m a big Wes Anderson buff, and really wanted the space to feel like one of his films,” says John McDonnell, president of Clyde’s Restaurant Group. The Dutch-influenced design includes quirky details, including hand-painted Delft tile, blown glass accents, and a leather-stitched bar. Deb Lindsey Conservas start the meal, with tinned fish like tuna belly served on toasted bread. “We’re used to doing large box, high-volume concepts that are meant to please large crowds at large volumes,” says McDonnell, “But that’s not always easy to do, especially with seafood.” At Cordelia — which is derived from the Celtic word for “daughter of the sea” — a carefully curated raw bar includes chilled Maine lobster, colossal shrimp, jumbo lump crab, and of course, an ever-rotating selection of oysters. Clyde’s Restaurant Group requires its seafood vendors to send monthly oyster samples to a testing facility, where McConnell says the team tests for pathogens “at a level that is 20 percent stricter than the FDA” to ensure maximum freshness and food safety. Deb Lindsey Giant tiger prawns from the large platters side of the menu Deb Lindsey Oysters are covered in fermented pork butter and grana padano before being roasted over charcoal. The raw bar isn’t the only place where you’ll find fresh seafood, and crudos also play a starring role at Cordelia’s. Bluefin tuna is served with pistachio, capers, Meyer lemon, and a parsley sauce, while the hamachi crudo is paired with aji amarillo, cucumber, citrus, cilantro, and pepitas. But the most unique crudo comes in the form of salmon, with a 10-day-aged Ora King salmon paired with wildflower honey broth and salmon roe. The same aged salmon will also be prepared as a steak cut, cooked over charcoal at a high heat to achieve a crisp outside while maintaining a tender, moist center. “These fish aging lockers are pretty common in Japanese restaurants, but have only recently starting moving into other cuisines,” McDonnell says. “We’ve found that aging different cuts for different amounts of time helps create and capture more flavor and umami.” Those perfectly aged cuts of fish are served up raw or grilled over charcoal sourced from Virginia, inspired by charcoal grilling techniques from Spain and Portugal. For example, a roasted whole turbot can be paired with a range of sauces from salsa verde to black garlic, and served alongside sides like gigante beans, maitake mushrooms, and ras el hanout carrots. “Having the charcoal grill allows us to really lovingly treat an entire piece of protein,” McConnell says, giving the team the opportunity to coax different flavors from the rib meat, neck meat, and filet. Deb Lindsey Crispy roasted turbot surrounded by an array of sides. On the beverage side, creative cocktails are organized by flavor profile, from light and bright to stirred and boozy. You’ll find both Cordelia creations — like the Fountain of Youth featuring white port, St. George gin, blood orange, and elderflower tonic — as well as tried-and-true classics, like a Sazerac made with Willet 4-year rye whiskey, demerara Peychaud’s bitters, and Mt. Defiance absinthe. “We’re not necessarily known for being edgy in our other restaurants, but we’re hoping to do that a bit more at Cordelia,” McConnell says. “We’re just trying to live our best seafood lives.”