American cheesemongers have a chip on their shoulders.  It’s not entirely unwarranted. American cheese (the category) is fairly young, all things considered, gaining traction only in the 1970s, and is often conflated with the giant bricks of yellowish-orange American cheese (the product) foun d in grocery stores across the country. “The Big Cheese,” a new documentary from director Sara Joe Wolansky (a former video producer for “The New Yorker”), looks to course-correct, focusing the spotlight on a group of cheesemongers trying to compete as team USA in 2023 at the prestigious Mondial du Fromage, an international cheese competition held in France since 2013. First stop is Cheesemongers Invitational, or CMI, founded in 2010 by Adam Moskowitz, a third-generation cheese importer and outsized personality. This is more his story than anyone else’s — a young hotshot at “Yahoo” making and losing fortunes before joining the family business; recovering addict; eventual family man. His narrative runs parallel to team USA’s. Footage from early CMIs with Moskowitz as host “Mr. Moo” (and no, I won’t be explaining further) has the energy of a rave or a midnight show at a secret venue where they haven’t mopped the floors in weeks, if ever. It’s electric and loud and deeply American. Through CMI we’re introduced to several cheesemongers, among dozens, vying for a spot on the team. As a whole, the film feels closest to bingeing several episodes of your favorite reality competition show — think “Top Chef” or “Project Runway.” After the first of three informal sections, I wanted more of the contestant pool, or even an actual series. These are interesting folks at various stages of their careers; in keeping the film balanced, time-wise, it suffers a bit by narrowing the field so quickly. But to Mondial we must go, and Courtney Johnson and Sam Rollins are the two who will make the trip abroad.  The competition has nine components, including an oral presentation on a cheese of their choice, a blind taste test and a cheese plate. It’s genuinely thrilling. As team USA’s coach, it’s not super clear how much input Moskowitz has on what Johnson and Rollins prepare for the competition, but his support of both contestants is crucial and sincere; you can tell he needs a win. They all do. It’s a relatively tight-knit community, and there are actual stakes, notoriety and money to make professional dreams come true.  True to its inspiration, “The Big Cheese” is a little salty and a little (bitter)sweet; a welcome accompaniment to your evening. I won’t spoil the ending, but like any good cheese, it’ll leave you wanting more.  Catch “The Big Cheese” at The Little Theatre for a limited engagement starting August 7. More info and tickets here. Johanna Lester is a pop culture critic who mainlines movies, TV and the best cookies Rochester has to offer. She’ll also hold that grudge on your behalf. Follow her @theauntjojo. The post Review | ‘The Big Cheese’ appeared first on CITY Magazine. Arts. Music. Culture.. ...read more read less