Big Bunso. | Ben Coleman/Eater Portland Portland has a remarkable abundance of Filipino restaurants and food carts, each with a unique take on the versatile archipelagic cuisine. Perhaps the most genre-bending interpretation can be found at Makulít, a neon-splattered burger cart with an int riguing mix of Southeast Asian flavors in a variety of North American form factors. After some existential uncertainty following the recent shakeup at the Lil’ America pod, Malukit landed at Modhaus on SE 38th and Division, along with Lil’ America alum Hawker Station and cart-scene heavyweights Jojo and Chick Pig. “Fusion” gets a bad rap in some food circles, but when global cuisines collide like this, it’s worth paying attention. What to order The Big Bunso ($15) is a delicious intersection of global foodways, featuring a richly seasoned longganisa patty topped with grilled onion and atsara, a funky fermented papaya relish. Everything comes together on a cakey-but-suitably-robust bun from Balong Panaderia. The adobo poutine ($14), a spin on a Canadian classic, is a hangover-demolishing combo of cheese curds and battered fries slathered in an adobo-infused pulled-pork gravy. Pancit canton ($12) isn’t as common on Portland area menus as yakisoba or chow mein, but it should be. This stir-fried noodle dish has a tangy kick thanks to another distinctly Filipino flavor combo, toyomansi sauce (think soy plus kumquat). It’s vegan to start, but you can punch it up with chunks of glazed chicken ($4). The vibe Modhaus is still very much under construction at the moment, but the website promises a kid-friendly indoor area, covered outdoor seating, and room for about a dozen or so carts. For now, there’s a handful of uncovered picnic benches, so keep an eye on the weather. Insider tip Throw in a side of the aforementioned atsara ($.75) and/or sinamak ($.50), a spiced vinegar dipping sauce, and never look at fries the same way again. ...read more read less