Chicken liver mousse on a rye sable. | Katherine Chew Hamilton/Eater Portland When did higher-end dining get so spartan and serious? Thankfully, that’s not the case at Bar Nouveau, which started as a pop-up and opened permanently in St. Johns in October. Here, maximalism and retro appeal a re key. A wall near the entryway is plastered with pages from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and thrifted gold candle sconces line the walls. Diners are greeted with thimble-sized welcome cocktails and eat off tea party-like floral-painted plates atop doilies. But the whimsy doesn’t stop there: At the end of your meal, the check comes tucked inside an old romance novel, a nod to chef Althea Grey Potter’s grandmother, who loved to read romance novels in the bathtub. What to order Chicken liver mousse ($8) from chickens in nearby Oregon City is piped like buttercream atop a rye sablé cookie, then dotted with cranberry-apple compote for an umami-sweet start. Entrees are generously portioned and give old luxury vibes, from steak au poivre ($36) with pommes paillasson (think fancy potato pancake) and bouillabaisse ($38) with rockfish, clams, and monstrous scallops — swipe up the tomato-Pernod broth. Desserts ($15 each) feel like you’re in Alice in Wonderland, from pot de creme with hilariously proportioned foot-long langue de chat cookies to a cheery parfait of bruleed grapefruit, warm olive oil cake, and lemon curd with bergamot whipped cream. What to drink The wine list is impressive — no surprise, given Potter’s previous venture, Oui Wine Bar. But the cocktails ($15) are worth a look, including a “clean” martini with tarragon lemon vermouth and an Old Fashioned with ginger, banana, and lime. Insider tip Want your own romance novel to-go? Get one on the dessert menu along with bonbons and a glass of dessert wine; they’re also available on Sundays as part of the Girl Dinner, which gets you a martini, tots, salad, and a book. ...read more read less