Arancini and puntarelle salad at Adelleda. Adelleda, newly opened by the team behind Vtopian and now-closed Unwind, shines on Grand and Couch. Chef Riley Shepard conducts a symphonic ode to Portland’s seasons with his menu of delicate pastas, precise garnishes, and complex sauces. If it’ s at the farmers market, you’ll find it on the menu. What to order The rotating gnocchi and bucatini are a must. Recently, the Parisian gnocchi (airy dumplings made from pâte à choux) came coated in honeynut squash, brown butter, and sage before being topped with poached cranberries and hazelnuts. The toothsome straws of bucatini came dressed in onion soubise dotted with cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. Don’t sleep on the salads. In late November, root vegetables reign — beets three ways, sunchokes, fingerlings — and Oregon-grown Italian bitter greens, like puntarelle, are dressed and adorned in ways that highlight the vegetables at their peak. Be adventurous. Shepard, who spent time cooking at Spiaggia in Chicago, blends Midwestern and Oregonian goodness with all things European, an approach that’s exemplified by the cultured Malört butter to accompany bread and pickles, and giardiniera that brightens a rich risotto lobster mushroom etouffee. The vibe Despite the cavernous space — once a vacuum store — the restaurant feels warm and inviting. The coziness of a ’70s home bar with the grandeur of a hotel lobby. Insider tip The martini comes with a full snack plate of seasonal pickles and olives stuffed with Vtopian’s cheeses. A must for martini and pickle lovers alike. The cave-aged Brie will turn non-vegan heads. Get it with the crisped baguette and seasonal mostarda. ...read more read less