Dec 11, 2025
Pomalo is both a philosophy and a new Portland bar North Lombard isn’t as flashy as some of Portland’s other main drags, but it is home to many of the city’s most venerable dive bars. The Sundown Pub certainly looked the part, with vintage wood fixtures and stately stained glass orname ntation paired with molecule-thin industrial carpet and glowing neon beer signs. But by most accounts, the Sundown’s best days were behind it, and for the last few years, nearby watering holes like Mock Crest Tavern and Mousetrap Tavern have been more reliable spots for an afternoon beer or a late-night game of darts. So it’s not exactly a Shakespearean tragedy that the location’s new owner Mary Caballero has given the space a new name, a new ethos, and a significant remodel. Caballero has rechristened the bar Pomalo, which isn’t so much a Croatian word as it is the Dalmatian Coast’s answer to “Hakuna Matata.” It’s a somewhat ineffable local philosophy that invites people to slow down, enjoy the scenery — and who wants a drink? The kitchen is headed by Zula alum Caleb Rose, and the new menu is a mix of bar staples like grilled cheese sandwiches and fries, along with a truly elephantine pork schnitzel and New Orleans touches like crawfish etouffee and a Cajun burger. There isn’t anything specifically Croatian in there yet, but the soft opening on Monday, December 1, featured a cevapi sausage and flatbread special that will hopefully stick around for a while. The cocktail program is likewise a mix of classic drinks with some fun twists. The unquestionable standout, according to both me and the three people nearby who vocally exclaimed when they tried theirs, is the Grown-Up Chunky Monkey. It’s a mix of bourbon and banana liqueur garnished with a Pocky stick, which could read like the kind of cloying, syrupy mess you’d find at a gamer cafe. But the drink is surprisingly light and nicely balanced, akin to a very light maple syrup. Similarly, the Second Line is a viable spin on a Manhattan, and it’s nice to see flavors like yuzu, basil, and Lillet making an appearance in other drinks. There’s been a trend in the last decade or so of building owners and bar groups flipping beloved (but fairly rundown) dives into slightly more respectable neighborhood cocktail spots with prices to match. These so-called “hipster McMenamons” (referring to the ubiquitous hospitality chain that’s been doing funky rehabs of old buildings for decades) can go in a couple of different directions, from the Sandy Hut’s faithful Roaring Twenties restoration to the Vern’s more vibey aesthetic pastiche. Pomalo feels like a good mix of those schools: the knotty oak wood panels and some of the stained glass have been retained, and there’s still plenty of neon and kitsch on the walls. But the back bar is significantly friendlier to the Instagram crowd, and the seating arrangement feels more contemporary.  One particularly interesting addition is a record nook on the back corner of the back room. It’s not exactly a Tokyo-style listening bar, but it’s a nicely designed conversation space, and again, very Insta-friendly. There’s also the obligatory pool table and a couple of vintage arcade cabinets that give the back area a fun rumpus room vibe. There are plans in the works for live music and karaoke nights, which should be pretty lively given the energy of the crowd at the soft opening. Caballero says her vision for Pomalo isn’t another dive on Lombard, there are plenty of those already. And great dive bars aren’t made from scratch anyway; they’re what survives after decades of hard use. So it’ll take a minute for Pomalo to develop that broken-in-jeans feeling that the best neighborhood spots have. For now, though, the neighbors seemed pretty amped for a bar with some fun new twists and plenty of old-school charm. And while dive bar aficionados may need to wait a while for the proper patina to develop, this is a rare opportunity to walk on bar carpet when it’s brand new. Pomalo (5903 N Lombard Street) debuted on Thursday, December 4, and is open 4 p.m. to midnight on Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday, and 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. ...read more read less
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