A parade of colorful plates at Onggi. | Scott Suchman/Onggi D.C.’s bold new fermentation station swings open with kimchi, galbi, elegant tasting menus, and more Negative ions are part of the positive allure of Onggi, a flowing Korean royal-court experience where banquettes are lined with heated Himalayan salt rock. Simone Rathle/Onggi Assorted kimchi at Onggi. Situated a stone’s throw from Dupont Circle, the spa-like space beholds an intentional dining journey. At Onggi, named for Korean earthenware vessels used in crafting and storing kimchi, the ancient art of fermentation is folded into each technique-savvy meal. While many Korean kitchens are known to blanket diners’ tables with banchan (small sides designed for sharing), Onggi leans in on Hanjeongsik, a traditional Korean multi-course meal, “like a carefully choreographed dance,” according to owner and culinary director Tanya Kim and executive chef Geewon Kim (not related). Onggi’s anticipated spring opening on Tuesday, April 1 marks instant Dupont competition for Anju, which is long considered one of the best sit-down Korean restaurants in town. Onggi slides into the former home of Duck Duck Goose (2100 P Street NW). To start, Onggi guests begin with a ceremonial tea cleanse service, followed by a squash porridge with a dusting of sweetened flower powder — a customary preparation that is meant to stimulate the appetite. For their pas de deux with the restaurant, customers pick from three options: an $85 six-course or $115 nine-course “Land & Sea” option, or a vegan nine-course “Earth” option for $105. Each tasting menu moves through its unique progression, though all come with a housemade, brightly acidic white pear kimchi that serves to cut through and freshen heavier dishes. The “Land & Sea” choice includes dishes like abalone and japchae; the vegan option ropes in mushrooms in gochujang and fried tofu. The partners open Onggi after itinerant pathways to the restaurant industry. As a former U.S. government worker, Tanya Kim became interested in Korean food through her job, so she visited Seoul to immerse herself in coursework on the history of royal palace cuisine (focusing on the celebrated Joseon Dynasty) that influences the food at Onggi. Meanwhile, Geewon Kim worked construction during the day, and spent evenings honing his culinary chops. Scott Suchman/Onggi In-shell abalone grilled with butter. Scott Suchman/Onggi Mandu makes up a quick a la carte menu. Together, the Kims aim to provide meals in which “beauty, ancient techniques, regional diversity, and communal spirit converge.” Each of the dishes, regardless of menu, represents a region, a custom, or a season, they say. One standout is the Chiljeolpan, a “seven delicacies” pancake. Beloved in Korea, the dish arranges seven colorful ingredients around wafer-thin crepes used to eat. Originally a court dish from the Joseon Dynasty, it symbolizes balance and harmony, allowing diners to wrap their own delicate, flavorful combinations. Scott Suchman/Onggi Galbi is also served lunchtime as a set meal with soup. Scott Suchman/Onggi Zona Rosa (tequila, egg white, omija, honey, gochujang, lime). They also point to the galbi, traditional marinated and grilled short ribs. The rich, sweet-savory-umami dish originated in the same Joseon Dynasty, and is widely consumed today. At dinner, the galbi comes with banchan. Beverage director Colin Sugalski runs the drink program, channeling the city of Seoul’s vibrant nightlife he’s experienced firsthand. He tosses in makgeolli, a highly traditional, “customarily free-flowing” milky-colored sparkling rice wine, into cocktails like the University Days, which pairs beautifully with citrus and lemongrass. The cheekily named “Not Another Lychee Martini” features soju, lychee, ginger, yogurt, and a floral touch from chrysanthemum. An eclectic set of half-dozen beers, as well as a wine list that leans heavily on prosecco and Riesling hangs well with spicy, rich dishes. Scott Suchman/Onggi The “seven-delicacies” pancake arranges ingredients around a porcelain platter. Outside of the set dinner menus, there’s a short list of a la carte dishes — kim bap, chicken wings, mandu (dumplings) — as well as a lunch menu, all of which are served with black bean tea, banchan, and salad. The serene, spa-like setup is bathed in a suite of eggshell, beige, and cream tones. Balancing the whites, plush suede round chairs pair well with warm wooden tables, along with those blush-pink energizing Himalayan salt rock. Dishes arrive on handcrafted ceramic wares from eight different Korean artisans who work with indigenous clay. This intentionality at Onggi “stands as a living tribute to Korea’s culinary legacy,” say the Kims. Simone Rathle/Onggi Vegan kimbap at Onggi. ...read more read less