Winter wine tips from Oak Park’s Sam Tuttle
Jan 17, 2025
By Chris Diebel
Looking to try some new wines this winter? I recently asked Oak Park’s wine director, Sam Tuttle, for some recommendations that will keep us warm through this weekend’s Arctic blast and the next few chilly months. As of this writing, all the wines he suggested were available at area wine shops. When temperatures are more hospitable, Tuttle gravitates toward light-bodied wines that are higher in acidity.
However, this time of year, he turns to powerhouses packed with higher tannins and alcohol, full-bodied options that offer ripeness and complexity.Barolo and Barbaresco wines from northwest Italy’s Nebbiolo grapes are frequent favorites for their spice and for how well they pair with hearty winter meals. Some of his top picks include:
G.D. Vajra “Albe” Barolo, Piemonte, Italy, 2020 ($37)
Marchesi di Gresy “Martinenga” Barbaresco, Piemonte, Italy, 2020 ($65)
Michele Chiarlo “Tortoniano” Barolo, Piemonte, Italy, 2019 ($60)
Tuttle also gravitates to Syrah, particularly from the northern Rhone Valley of France and the cooler parts of Sonoma, California. “The endless aromatics of game, black pepper, liquid smoke and violet are all wrapped in this undeniable sanguine character,” he wrote in an email.He enjoys this wine by itself, but he also shared one of his favorite local food pairings: “If you happen to end up with some Whatcha Smokin BBQ and one of the following bottles, you won’t be disappointed.” Who can argue with that?
E. Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage Syrah, Northern Rhone, France, 2021 ($32)
Domaine Durand “Lautaret” Syrah, Saint-Joseph, France, 2020 ($37)
Timo Mayer Syrah, Yarra Valley, Australia, 2022 ($80)
As I researched each of these wines, I started daydreaming about braised short ribs over polenta or perhaps a classic shepherd’s pie. Hmm … looks like it’s time to start planning another dinner party.
Tips for pairing food and wine
In addition to the specific seasonal recommendations above, Tuttle also explained some general factors to consider when pairing food and wine.Intensity vs. Intensity. If you have a delicate dish like a salad, pair it with a wine that matches that delicacy, such as Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre or Gruner Veltliner from Austria. Alternatively, a steak or a rack of lamb with strong flavors of pepper or strong herbs requires a wine that can go toe-to-toe with such a big rich dish. Think about a Merlot, Cabernet-based blend or the fiercely tannic Nebbiolo from Northern Italy. Neither the dish nor the wine should overpower one another.Weight vs. Weight. A simple but cardinal rule: Make sure the wine is a textural companion to the dish. Leaner dishes like steamed veggies, broth-based soups, and salads will all feel light on your palate, so if you introduce a rich wine with a heavy texture, the weight difference will be noticeable. Similarly, if you have a dish that’s rich and heavy, a light-bodied wine will be overpowered by the dish every time.At the end of the day, Tuttle follows the cardinal rule: “Drink what you like.” He said one of the best tips he ever received came from an industry mentor: “If the wine is good and the food is good, there’s no such thing as a bad pairing.”