Have Dallas Restaurant Owners Learned to Appreciate an Affordable Menu?
Jan 16, 2025
Kathy Tran
Following the success of Goodwins, restaurant operators seem to be realizing that lower prices get customers to return The word “affordable” doesn’t mean the same thing to everyone. But for the past two years, chefs and owners at some of the toniest (and more expensive) restaurants in town have told Eater Dallas that the goal is to make the restaurant the kind of place people can come eat any night, not just on special occasions. It’s a nice sentiment, but when pressed about who those people are that can afford to become Tuesday night regulars, most of them didn’t have an answer.
The majority of the Michelin- and James Beard-recognized restaurants in Dallas are in the special occasion price range for many families. The median household income in Dallas in 2023 was in the $67,000 range, per the U.S. Census Bureau. The price of dining is surging nationwide, as food and labor costs continue to increase for restaurants following supply chain interruptions, inflation, wage hikes, increasing rent prices, and even basic restaurant supplies face racing costs. Still, in Dallas, out of town operators continue to come in to open fancy new restaurants, a fact that even prompted the New York Times to compare luxury dining in this town to Dubai — in a not wholly positive way. Ultimately, the average Dallasite is facing a dearth of places where they can afford to dine like a weeknight regular.
That may be changing, thanks to the blockbuster success of Goodwins. Owner Austin Rodgers and chef-owner Jeff Bekavac may have forged their partnership at the pricey Neighborhood Services, but both have learned a lot about sourcing quality foods for lower prices at the Alamo Club and the PILF Group (Carne Rosso, Zoli’s), respectively. In an interview in August 2024, shortly after Goodwins opened, Rodgers told Eater Dallas that the trick for Goodwins has been the assortment of price points. “A lot of the year [before we opened] was talking to my vendors and finding stuff at a good price point that we can pass on to the customer,” Bekavac says. “We said we want to charge what we need to, not necessarily what everybody else is.”
Kathy Tran
Rodgers agreed, noting, “There are two types of charging at a restaurant: what you need to charge and what you can get. Those are two different things.”
At the time, Bekavac said at they wanted to make sure none of their entrees went above $30. Rodgers shared that managing the restaurant’s labor costs were another part of the savings, by picking items like chickens that don’t need to be broken down or fish that can be trimmed for crudo and make an entree. “Our job managing labor costs is top-line sales,” Rodgers says. “If we can stay busy seven days a week, then we can have enough bodies in here do to the amount of prep required to charge [lower] prices.”
Pillar and Little Blue Bistro, which both opened in December — right across the street from each other in Bishop Arts, actually — have menus priced similarly to Goodwins’. Pillar comes from Mot Hai Ba owner and chef Peja Krstic, whose other restaurant landed a Bib Gourmand in the first Texas Michelin ceremony. Prices there skew higher, but the small restaurant is typically packed out every night. Pillar is a little larger, and, unlike Mot Hai Ba’s location in Lakewood, has a lot of competition within walking distance. Krstic set his entree prices under $35, with several under $30 plus one spendy and large ribeye at $49 and $75. Strategically, it’s a smart way to both go for another Bib Gourmand and keep it competitive in the neighborhood — but it’s also a way to get casual diners in the doors of a place that’s open seven days a week.
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Little Blue Bistro is owned by Olivia Genthe, who is also behind the bespoke Faunt Board and Table in Uptown. Both are charming little spaces in converted homes with limited menus. At Little Blue, that’s because the kitchen is roughly the size of a postage stamp, so keeping the menu tight is the only option. The opening menu features a really remarkable wine list of natural bottles and food that runs the gamut from fancy (escargot, anyone?) to homey (a nice plate of pot roast with mashed potatoes). It’s also got great nibbles like bowls of warm, marinated olives or radish butter. Its moody and intimate interior, with a sprawling outdoor seating area, and welcomes diners to stay and try the entire wine menu. Plates and glasses are under $30 and $20, respectively.
It’s not a revolution but more of a trend in the making. With Michelin dreams simmering in so many chef and restaurant owners’ minds, it may not become the focus we hope to see in 2025. But it’s heartening to see at least a few folks adopting the attitude that anyone is welcome any time — and creating menus with prices that reflect it.