Hector Santiago’s new La Metro is his ode to Spain’s tapas bars
Jan 14, 2025
Another weekend, another culinary fishing expedition. This time to Ponce City Market and chef Hector Santiago’s new La Metro, his ode to Spain’s tapas bars.
This is not the chef’s first tapas rodeo. Many Atlantans fondly remember his highly regarded restaurant Pura Vida, which closed its doors on Highland Avenue in 2012, a few years after his memorable turn as a contestant on season six of Top Chef. His new spot may be surrounded by spendy shops, but his passion, mission, and the occasional guest flamenco dancer make you feel as if you’ve strolled in from the streets of Barcelona or Madrid, and less as if you’ve just walked out of the nearby Williams-Sonoma.
The market is already home to Santiago’s other counter-style eatery, El Super Pan, which is kitty-corner from his new place. A couple of cocktails and a few nibbles, including Manchego Madura and San Simón cheeses, got us going at the L-shaped bar. The citrusy and frothy Mercado Sour was perfection, as was the bolder Solera old-fashioned.
As we considered the pintxos (bites) and bocatas (sandwiches) selection and perused the list of Spanish wines, we also took in the room: An open layout offers views into the buzzy front prep station and the quieter, pot-and-pan–lined back kitchen. On display are pretty Spanish and Moroccan tiles, stained glass, carafe pendants, and glimpses of action behind the quartz-topped bar—where there is a lot of alchemy, the opening of frosty metal drawers, and the handling of exquisite glassware.
Exuberant general manager and executive chef Brian Carson is quick with tapas suggestions, including daily specials, such as the paella of the day and rotating items like Bilbao chorizo with olive oil and whipped potatoes. When in doubt, start with the croquetas, patatas brava, and any of the cured hams. A lengthy tinned-fish menu offers staples such as sardines, plus a vegan “fish” made of celery root, as well as piquillo peppers stuffed with spider crab.
The Basque cheesecake, with its charred crust and creamy filling, balances the richness of the sheep’s milk cheese with tart lemon zest. A pour of Licor 43, a Spanish liqueur made in Cartagena, proved a heady companion.
This article appears in our January 2025 issue.
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