Maybe there’s something a little magical about the spot. Several years ago, I’d greatly enjoyed a meal at The Katz Club Diner on Lee Road in Cleveland Heights — a restaurant from chef Doug Katz that closed after a fire a decade ago — before attending a concert at the nearby Evans Amphitheater at Cain Park. A few weeks ago, I found myself sitting at the far end of the former diner’s counter — a few feet from the table I dined at during the previous visit — for an endlessly interesting meal at what is now Abundance Culinary, which serves up contemporary Chinese cuisine that isn’t tied to any particular region. (To help explain the name, think of it as “A-BUN-dance.”) Abundance Culinary resides in the former home of the Katz Club Diner on Lee Road in Cleveland Heights. (Mark Meszoros – The News-Herald) Owner Liu Fang — identified last year by the publication Plate as a chef to watch — settled the operation into the space in 2023 after making noise with her noodles, dumplings and, of course, buns at pop-ups around Northeast Ohio. More recently, she took up the space in the dining car she had been sharing with Rising Star Coffee after it moved to a nearby spot. Related Articles Nonna T’s Restaurant review: Grandma’s touch evident at 2-year-old Mentor spot Kitchen Social review: Pinecrest location of small Ohio chain is really cookin’ Rider’s Inn review: Historic spot proves to be every bit the charming old haunt My friend Cassandra and I had Friday-night reservations at Abundance for what was, in part, a birthday celebration for her and were quickly led to a comfy spot at the bar. The friendly server behind the bar, Cordelia, asked if it was our first time (yes) and gave us some helpful thoughts and told us basically to give a yell whenever we needed her attention. Sounded good — and only rarely did we have to wait just a little long to be helped. Taking stock of the vibe, it’s still very, well, diner-like — how could it not be? — but there are some touches affirming that, yes, Asian food is served here. Most importantly, it’s warm and relaxing if not as fancy as its food. Abundance Culinary, despite serving contemporary Chinese cuisine, retains much of that diner feel in the onetime home of the Katz Club Diner on Lee Road in Cleveland Heights. (Mark Meszoros – The News-Herald) We started with a pair of signature cocktails, Cassandra landing on the Sparrow’s Kiss ($15), with its bonded bourbon from Burton-based Tom Foolery Distillery, Chambord, pomegranate, lemon and Sichuan maple syrup. I savored my sip of this dark and dangerous little number quite a bit but was plenty pleased with my Abundance Old Fashioned ($14). One of the best takes on the classic drink I’d had in a while, Abundance’s brings together Sichuan peppercorn-infused Tom Foolery bourbon, Chinese allspice syrup and Angostura bitters. Thanks no doubt to the peppercorn, the drink dances on the tongue as if listening to defiant jazz. The Sparrow’s Kiss is one of the signature cocktails at Abundance Culinary in Cleveland Heights. (Mark Meszoros – The News-Herald) The Abundance Old Fashioned, at Abundance Culinary in Cleveland Heights, is a spicy number thanks to its Sichuan peppercorn-infused Tom Foolery bourbon.. (Mark Meszoros – The News-Herald) As for starters, Cordelia had sold me on the dumpling Variety Sampler ($18), offering two each of the Sichuan Sausage, Beef With Cilantro, Lamb & Tomato and Sweet Corn — a perfectly sharable appetizer if there’s ever been one. I couldn’t pick a favorite among the generally savory and complex dumplings — and, honestly, it was tough to remember which was which even after having been told — but I was in withdrawal from the end of sweet corn season, so that creative gem was an extra treat. With two each of the Abundance Culinary’s dumplings, the Variety Sampler is an ideal appetizer for two people to share. (Mark Meszoros – The News-Herald) We also were intrigued by a shareable special ($13) that night. As it’s a one-off, I won’t spend much time on it, but it had us working through an artful presentation of ingredients for a fluffy egg at the bottom. Not sure I’ve had anything quite like it, and it was a fine example of Fang’s creativity and skill. The reward at the bottom of this appetizer special at Abundance Culinary in Cleveland Heights was a tasty egg. (Mark Meszoros – The News-Herald) For my entree, I gave strong consideration to another of Cordelia’s recommendations, the Pork and Grits ($22); I’m sure its soy-marinated pork belly is sensational, but another item from the Mains section of the menu, the Xiao Choa Beef ($25), sounded as if it would hit the spot. Served with rice, the dish of shaved brisket, sweet peppers, celery, red onion and pickled wild pepper did just that, thanks largely to that deeply savory beef — so full of flavor. On a return visit, I would try something else, but that’s only because other items also sound so good. Without much deliberation, Cassandra settled on one of four noodle dishes, the Ginger Sesame Chicken ($20). She was quite happy with the carefully presented entree of braised chicken thigh, shitake mushroom, bok choy, napa cabbage, lantern pepper and cilantro. I, too, was pleased with the bite I had, but this dish, by comparison with others — heck, there’s another noodle dish called Fire ($18) — seemed a little on the safe side. The Sesame Ginger Chicken is one of the noodle dishes available during a recent dinner visit to Abundance Culinary in Cleveland Heights. (Mark Meszoros – The News-Herald) Speaking of the soy bean-centric Fire, it is one of Abundance’s vegetarian-friendly options, as are the fantastic-sounding Pecan Smoked Vegetables ($24) and the King Oyster Mushroom ($20). A pescatarian’s best bet would be the Spicy Fragrant Fish ($24), centered around wild sea bass. This is a good time to mention the menu is seasonal, depending in part on available local produce, so it’s hard to say how long any of these options will be available. However, Fang says some items, including the popular Xiao Choa Beef, are mainstays. With this being a birthday dinner and our entrees to-go box-friendly, it was easy to save room for dessert. We decided on what I believe were the two options that evening, Rice Pudding ($12) for Cassandra and the Fried Milk ($12) for me. The former, as I expected, was more to her taste than mine, while I was thrilled with my unusual fried little planks and two dipping concoctions, both sweet but quite different. Pleasantly, neither dessert was too heavy. The Chinese dessert Fried Milk was an offering during a recent visit to Abundance Culinary in Cleveland Heights. (Mark Meszoros – The News-Herald) I couldn’t help but love everything about Abundance, from the fond memories it stirred of a pleasant long-ago meal to its fair prices to a chef very much worth watching into 2025. Reviews are based on one anonymous visit to a restaurant. Abundance Culinary 1975 Lee Road Cleveland Heights 216-785-9959 a-bun.com Location: Southeast corner of Lee and East Overlook roads, a few blocks north of Cedar Road. Cuisine: Modern Chinese. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Liquor and wine: Signature cocktails, wine and Jackie O’s beers. All the beers at Abundance Culinary in Cleveland Heights are from Athens-based Jackie O’s, including this Omission of Logic, an imperial porter with notes of pecan, vanilla and cinnamon that, at 14 percent alcohol volume, is a potent potion. (Mark Meszoros – The News-Herald) Vegetarian: A few options. Special diets: Gluten-free options and vegan options available; will try to accommodate special requests. Kid-friendliness: Highchairs and boosters; may be best for children with adventurous palettes. Outdoor dining: Patio seating 25 to 50. Dress code: Casual. Reservations: Accepted. Wi-Fi: Yes. Prices: Moderate, with entrees $20 to $25. Value: Very good. Ratings (of five): Food: 4.5. Atmosphere: 3.5. Service: 4.