The best bowl of Beef Bourguignon starts with country-style ribs, cooked low and slow. By Wini Moranville In my early cooking life, I often wondered why my braised beef dishes — whether a fancy Beef Bourguignon or a rustic Provençal stew — always fell short of the rich, tender satisfaction I’d experienced in France. I could follow a French recipe to the letter, yet the meat never turned out as moist, tender or luxurious as I’d remembered. It wasn’t a faux pas in my technique that held me back, but rather the cut of meat I was using. Many recipes simply call for “chuck,” a generic term for cuts from the animal’s shoulder. But not all parts of the chuck are created equal. After plenty of trial and error, I finally landed on a cut that delivers the same tender and luscious texture and full-bodied flavor I associate with French braises. Now, it’s my go-to for winter braises, French or otherwise. The cut? Beef country-style ribs. Calvin Schnucker (pictured), who owns the Good Butcher, calls this the “best of the chuck.” Its tenderness comes from both its location on the animal and the way it’s cut across the grain. These are always boneless, by the way.Curious to try it? Substitute beef country-style ribs for chuck roast or stew meat when cooking a recipe for a beef stew or braise. I found the ribs locally at the Good Butcher, Hy-Vee and Price Chopper, though you may want to phone ahead to see if they’re in stock. If you live in or near Waukee, give Old Station Craft Meats a call; they can cut some to order for you.Heads-up: This cut braises to perfection faster than chuck roast, so start checking early to see if it’s done. Over the weekend, I tested both stovetop and oven braising methods in two different recipes. Here’s what worked best: Oven: Braise at 325 degrees for about 1 hour, 45 minutes, checking for tenderness at 1 hour, 30 minutes. Stovetop: Braise at a low simmer for about 2 hours, checking at 1 hour, 30 minutes. Keep in mind, most braises are best when you cook them a day in advance and let the flavors meld in the fridge. Plus, chilling them makes it simple to skim off the excess fat from these naturally rich cuts.Wini Moranville is the author of “Everyday French Cooking: Modern French Cuisine Made Simple.” She also writes two Substack newsletters, Dining Well in DSM and a new one called On Food & France, which explores food stories and traditions from her travels in France, Portugal, Argentina, and closer to home in Iowa.