California is not the epicenter of barbecue culture in America. Notwithstanding notable and beloved East Bay exceptions like Horn Barbecue and Fikscue Craft BBQ. Whether it’s slow-cooked over wood coals or hickory hardwood, sauced or rubbed, the Golden State can’t compete with the reputations of barbecuers in other parts of the country. At Heads & Tails Barbecue, Drew Majoulet, who co-owns the restaurant with Rick Stolle, told me that their menu takes a Tex-Mex approach, with an equal amount of California cuisine added into the mix. The entreés I tried were all familiar, comforting and, ultimately, beyond filling. Only purists and aficionados would be able to suss out any subtle regional differences.  Majoulet, who oversees the kitchen, mentioned that the menu has evolved since the opening a few months ago. He noted that customers in the neighborhood universally asked for a side of sauce with their smoked meats. Now each Smoker Plate includes a slice of bread, pickles and a container of sauce. There are plans to install a standalone sauce station, akin to a salsa bar. Between my first and second visits, a couple of months apart, more thought went into the presentation of the Smoker Plate. It’s more composed now and more substantial. And the overall quality of the food improved. When a Bay Area food news outlet interviewed Majoulet earlier this year, he described Heads & Tails as a bar first with “an approachable menu.”  It’s not that the food was an afterthought the first time I ate there; it just wasn’t the star. That’s since changed. With their willingness to listen to and honor neighborhood requests, Heads & Tails management decided to prioritize each plate as an equal partner to the Happy Hour drink specials and the ice-cold draft beers. Our two starters added up to a draw though, one hit and one miss. The Texas Frito Pie ($14) instantly brought up a flood of nostalgic memories for my friend who grew up eating similar concoctions. A paper container filled with fritos, drenched in brisket chili, shredded cheddar cheese, scallions and fresh jalapeños. Nothing registered as nostalgic about it for me, but I ate bite after bite of that tender brisket chili. With appetizers like chips, salsa and guacamole ($10) or loaded nachos ($12), the tray of chips and queso ($8) felt like an incomplete thought. The queso, lightly infused with roasted peppers, was missing an acidic element, pickled vegetables perhaps. In the next iteration of the menu, I’d cross it off the list. A side of coleslaw, too, needed more spice, even pepper would have helped, and more vinegar. But to the delight of carnivores everywhere, the kitchen excels at the preparation of meat. Earlier this year, I thought I might have eaten my last-ever fried chicken sandwich. I’d just had too many of them. After a six-month hiatus, I ordered the buttermilk fried chicken plate ($24) and fell in love with the dish again. When it’s made right—with a perfectly crisp coating—it’s irresistible. Why bury fried chicken inside a bun when it tastes so good semi-naked on the plate? My side of potato salad, deviled-egg style, was a pleasing, creamy foil. The pork ribs ($36) are made “St. Louis style” with a side of sweet barbecue sauce that divided the table. One half thought the pineapple notes rendered it too sweet; the other half thought they tempered the spice level. The ribs themselves were huge and hard to put down. We also tried a few small cuts of brisket that, I suspect, other chefs making barbecue wouldn’t be able to refuse. My own nostalgic moment arrived with a spoonful of a banana pudding ($8). When I was a boy, I lived in Palm Desert for a summer. On Sunday nights, a couple of families with kids my age gathered for dinner on the grassy space at the edge of our apartment complex. One parent or another would buy KFC buckets and sides for everyone to share, followed by plastic containers of banana pudding for dessert. Heads & Tails’ version is an exquisite take on a flavor profile I’d sequestered in the back of my childhood mind. For a few moments, I tasted something from the past that I’d forgotten about, something sweet that I thought was irretrievable. Heads & Tails Barbecue, open every day 11am to midnight, 2121 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley. 510.973.1920. IG:@headsandtailsbarbecue. headsandtailsbarbecue.com