Bacon bits from coconut? Fried chicken and oysters from mushrooms? Indeed, creative innovations in plant-based food have led chefs around the Sacramento region to develop mouth-wateringly meaty dishes that happen to be deliciously—even surprisingly—meat-free. With November marking World Vegan Month, join us on a tour of 10 restaurants whose plant-powered wizardry with everything from pizzas to tacos to po’boys to spareribs could trigger cravings in even the most steadfast carnivore.   Photo by Ryan Donahue, Courtesy of Mother Mother’s Oyster Mushroom Po’boy Along with other cult favorites like the seminal Nutburger at Sunflower Drive-In, the fried oyster mushroom po’boy at Mother ranks among Sacramento’s small but significant canon of plant-based classics. Chef and Mother co-founder Mike Thiemann stumbled on the idea in the lead-up to opening the first iteration of his vegetarian restaurant downtown in 2014: While hosting pop-up meals at the dive bar and music venue Old Ironsides, he imagined breading and frying oyster mushrooms as a cheeky play on the classic fried oyster po’boy. Trial and error ensued, with Thiemann finally nailing the formula: hand-torn oyster mushrooms soaked in unsweetened coconut milk and hot sauce, dredged in flour seasoned with paprika and garlic powder, and fried to order. The mushrooms are then embedded inside a soft French roll, drizzled with a vegan, vinegar-y remoulade, and adorned with discs of sliced pickles. In keeping with po’boy tradition, the sandwich is unfussy, clean and filling, but the whispers of spice and delicate texture of the fried mushrooms definitively elevate the sandwich to iconstatus. Patrons grieved the late, lamented dish when Mother closed in 2020 and celebrated when the restaurant relaunched in midtown last year with the vegan po’boy in tow. Happily, the world is our oyster (mushroom) once again. 2319 K St. mothersacramento.com Pizzasaurus Rex’s Vegan Pepperoni Pizza While the Sacramento area’s best all-around pizza joint may be a topic of rich debate that local foodies never quite resolve, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better 100% vegan pizza than the dazzler at this saucy little midtown jewel. Like the rest of P. Rex’s pies, a rectangular 12-by-17-inch bed of dough provides the base for the pizza party of flavors to follow: The house red sauce (with its fresh-forward, tomato paste sweetness pierced with peppery high notes) is sprinkled with melty mozzarella (from plant-based dairy pioneers Daiya) and punctuated with crispy, salty pepperoni slices (from the Nashville vegan meat wizards The Be-Hive). Ribbons of fresh basil pop in bright green against the frame of the undulating, oven-charred crust. For vegans accustomed to fake meats and cheeses foisted on our palates like afterthoughts, this conscientiously crafted tastiness is practically too good to be true. For everyone else, it’s startlingly cheesy, meaty and delicious. Feeling more peckish than famished? Pizzasauraus Rex doesn’t regularly sell its plant-based pepperoni pie by the slice, but patrons with smaller appetites can try a unique vegan pizza every Monday as its daily “Dino” slice special. (Recent options have included a seasonal stone-fruit topping and a pie decked out with truffle oil, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, black pepper and parsley.) Vegetarians or the vegan-curious can also order the meatless varieties as one side of a half-and-half pie with anything else on the menu. Any way you slice it, one bite of P. Rex’s pizza perfection will have you roaring. 2322 K St. 916-476-5712. eatpizzasaurusrex.com Photo by Cinthia Martinez, Courtesy of Nixtaco Nixtaco’s Spicy Tofu Taco Nearly a decade into Nixtaco’s stellar run as one of Northern California’s best taquerias—and with a three-year Michelin Bib Gourmand streak and raves in The New York Times  and Food & Wine  to back it up—chef and co-owner Patricio Wise says he still has a point to prove: Namely, that vegan-curious foodies needn’t rely on pseudo-beef and processed proteins for a satisfyingly meaty (yet 100% plant-based) meal. His Roseville restaurant emphasizes simple, minimal ingredients in its lineup of vegan tacos, and the spicy tofu taco is perhaps the simplest and most minimal, and yet, somehow the meatiest option of all. Wise starts with bite-size tofu chunks sautéed in a tomato-based sauce spiced up with serrano chilies and layered with lime, cilantro and cumin—a flavor combo derived from the cuisine of Wise’s native northeastern Mexico. The tofu emerges with a deeply seasoned kick and just the faintest crispiness, and is piled onto a soft house-made blue corn tortilla and topped off with sprigs of fresh, floral micro cilantro. That’s it: Expect no shredded lettuce or diced tomato or sour cream to compromise the temperature or flavors; no outlandish salsas or spices to artificially jack up the heat. Theoretically you could ask for a side of sliced avocado for it, but consider instead ordering another of the heavy vegan hitters on Nixtaco’s menu: The Avocado Explosion, which serves up fried avocado slices under a canopy of lime-pickled onions, all tastefully dressed with toasted chili, sesame seed oil and chipotle-peanut aioli. It’s not quite as meaty—but with a chef this talented, who needs meat? 1805 Cirby Way. Roseville. 916-771-4165. nixta.co READ MORE: Northern Exposure – The chefs behind Nixtaco and Canon have teamed up for Folsom’s new cantina, Pedregal Tree House Cafe’s Black Unicorn Sandwich A name like “Black Unicorn” might conjure mythic origins, rare ingredients and other exotic characteristics not typically associated with a workaday sandwich. But the origin story, as told by Tree House Cafe proprietor Jeff “Fro” Davis (who previously owned the erstwhile local sushi bar Tokyo Fro’s), is more down to earth: Two years ago, amid a bottleneck of orders at his bucolic, bustling West Sacramento eatery steps from the riverfront, the kitchen crew needed to develop a few quick (yet delicious) hitters they could crank out without the oven or stove to speed up service times for hungry diners. Thus was born this deceptively simple—and unicorn-level singular—cornerstone of the Tree House menu: A sturdy, savory mash of black beans resting on two lightly toasted slices of bread from Truckee Sourdough Company, topped with sandwich fixins both classic (cucumber, tomato, arugula, pickled onions) and quirky (perfectly ripe avocado smashed up with lime and salt, and a vegan aioli whipped up with the spicy-sweet Korean condiment gochujang). The bean mash will more than assuage any carnivore skeptical that a vegan dish can’t be protein-forward, while the creaminess of the avocado and zing of the gochujang team up with the sourdough for a tangy, umami dalliance of flavors. For a little spicier encounter, ask for a side of Tree House’s house-made salsa; for a little richer vibe, request a slice of pre-roasted sweet potato to blanket the black beans. However you take it, this sandwich proves that even plant-based eaters can indulge in a little deli-style reverie near the river—a unicorn, indeed. 630 3rd St. West Sacramento. 916-942-9229. thcwestsac.com Three Ladies Cafe’s Avocado Chickpea Sandwich Located on the edge of downtown Davis, Three Ladies Cafe boasts a sprawling, omnivorous menu that could support restaurants three times its size. But owner Beizhi Pan has a special place in her heart for veggie-forward dishes that surprise patrons with their simplicity, versatility and flavor. The avocado chickpea sandwich at Three Ladies (named simply for Pan and the two staffers with whom she opened the place in 2017) is one such surprise: Originally introduced as a summer special in 2022, the sandwich was Pan’s idea of a cold, grab-and-go item for health-conscious locals. She already had a popular tofu sandwich on the menu for vegans, but she envisioned a new creation using chickpeas cooked in-house—a method emphasizing a tenderness and depth of flavor that generally eludes the canned variety. Soon Pan was building around chickpeas marinated in olive oil, apple cider vinegar, salt, pepper, parsley, lemon, garlic and oregano. The resulting legumes didn’t intentionally emulate meat. However, when paired with creamy avocado and mixed with diced red onion, cucumber and red bell peppers— themselves steeped in vinegar, oregano and fennel— the chickpeas provide texture and zest on par with the best chicken salad. The sandwich is equally admirable as a marvel of design: Visually, there is no indication the avalanche of chickpeas should hold its shape between slices of lightly toasted sourdough (sourced from neighboring Village Bakery) and avocado spread. But as you lift and press the whole contraption together, the ingredients collapse into each other as a well-engineered—and thoroughly delicious—whole. Diners swooned, and now you can get this bright, refreshing wonder year-round—an endless summer we can definitely get behind. 130 G St. Davis. 530-302-3434. threeladiescafe.com Enchanted Forest Dining Experience’s Stuffed Portobello Mushroom As envisioned by owner Kaitlyn Keyt, the Enchanted Forest Dining Experience in Placerville lives up to every word of its name: Faux ivy drapes the façade of the Celtic fantasy-themed restaurant on Main Street, inside of which lush garland and twinkling fairy lights embroider a grove of preserved manzanita trees and branches, and resin-coated slabs of cedar pulse softly with embedded tracks of river-blue light. Patrons are crowned with LED laurels upon being seated, a charming touch that carries over to dishes with names like “Famous Lobster Kilt Lifter” and “Irish Gold Miners Pasty Pie”—the latter of which proved Enchanted Forest is no mere gimmick by taking top prize this year when Guy Fieri’s new Food Network show Best Bite in Town  visited Placerville. But as experiences  go, the restaurant’s stuffed portobello mushroom dish might most defy belief: How is this rich, savory dynamo vegan ? It’s all in the layers, according to Enchanted Forest’s chef Sam Wiesepape (Keyt’s husband, who also designed and built the dining room): Vegan pesto blankets the underside of the mushroom cap, which is then topped with a blend of tender lentils, vegan Italian sausage (derived from pea protein), marinara sauce, roasted red peppers and onion—all seasoned along the way with herbs and vegetable broth. Melty, browned vegan cheese (made by Wisconsin’s plant-based dairy geniuses Vevan) tops the dish, and wisps of sweetness flutter in, fairylike, on a drizzle of balsamic vinegar glaze. This could be a signature item at most vegan restaurants, but on this meaty menu, it’s practically hiding in plain sight—a little forest magic, waiting to enrapture you. 372 Main St. Placerville. 530-303-3078. enchantedforestdining.com Sunflower Drive-In’s Millet Burger Well into its fifth decade as a Fair Oaks landmark serving wholesome (and lip-smacking) vegetarian and vegan grub, Sunflower Drive-In is practically synonymous with its flagship Nutburger. But if a patty built largely out of sunflower seeds, cashews, walnuts and almonds sounds a little… well, nutty, then scan a few lines down on the menu to find this institution’s sleeper offering: The millet burger fuses its namesake grain with brown basmati rice for a simpler, arguably more satisfying patty that plays even better with the toppings of tomato, lettuce, onions, pickles and—in a Sunflower signature—a messy tangle of fresh, crunchy sprouts. A sprouted wheat bun and sauce of ketchup, mustard and vegan mayonnaise round things out, but the secret of the millet burger’s hearty success isn’t necessarily in the ingredients. It’s in the cooking method, with the patty spending enough time on the griddle for an even, balanced sear that holds everything together and crackles softly between the teeth. The hardened millet on the edges even has a chicken-fried consistency (without the chicken-frying) that you won’t get with the Nutburger. Adventurous and especially hungry Sunflower-goers may opt to upgrade to the Mushroom Millet, which trades the bun for sourdough toast and boasts an umami-rich bounty of piping-hot mushrooms and onions grilled in soy sauce. Order a side of chips and house-made salsa at the walk-up window for a zesty bit of extra crunch, head down the hill to the nearby American River Parkway for a picnic, and enjoy a rare instance where you’re rewarded for not going against the grain. 10344 Fair Oaks Blvd. 916-967-4331. sunflowerdrivein.cafe Veg Cafe & Bar’s Chick’n & Waffles From Trader Joe’s to Costco, the mainstream marketplace offers no shortage of processed, plant-based fried chicken alternatives. But for Calvin Born, the chef-owner of the midtown vegan mecca Veg Cafe & Bar, offering fried “chick’n” meant keeping the classic meal simple, accessible and yes, craveable. The trick was to match fried chicken’s singular qualities—spicy and crispy outside, tender and moist inside—with simple, straightforward ingredients. Enter the humble oyster mushroom, which Born and his team source from Placerville’s Forest Floor Farming before dredging, frying and stacking in amber-gold towers atop a spongy round base in their miraculous Chick’n & Waffles dish. Granted, on paper, the idea of a waffle with mushrooms on it might prompt even the most daring palates—herbivore or omnivore—to balk. But the eye-popping presentation alone, with its uncannily chicken-y namesake and its colorful crown of candied pickled jalapeños, pickled onions and microgreens, is enough to break down any skeptic for at least a taste. One bite, and you’re hooked—rewarded with an eruption of flavor befitting the dish’s volcano-style verticality. Perhaps more surprisingly, the savory components fit deliciously with the accompanying maple syrup (you can order Veg’s curry maple syrup for a little spicier kick), and the fluffy waffle is flecked with both powdered sugar and vegan sour cream for a zingy sweet-acid duel. The dish debuted in 2019 on a special Valentine’s Day brunch menu, emerging as an instant audience favorite and earning its place in the permanent weekend lineup shortly thereafter. Anyone serious about brunch should run to Veg Cafe for this— no waffling. 2431 J St. 916-448-8768. vegsacramento.com Nectar Cafe’s BLTA Sandwich  Most vegan “bacon” is an abomination—highly processed, leathery, overpriced bands of synthetic garbage. It usually justifies the reluctance of omnivores who swear they could never  forgo the fatty, salty, crispy real thing in the interest of a plant-based lifestyle. However, with its BLTA, Nectar Cafe on Auburn’s Central Square makes an unusually strong case for fakin’ bacon. After misfiring for a few weeks with experiments like rice paper bacon (it dissolved) and, uh, carrot bacon (don’t ask), the kitchen cracked a clever solution that endures here to this day: coconut flakes marinated in tamari, maple syrup, smoked paprika, liquid smoke and nutritional yeast (a salty, single-ingredient umami-bomb powder also known as “nooch”—a vegan’s best friend). Like its meaty namesake, the coconut bacon is oven-roasted low and slow, frequently rotated until emerging as brittle, brick-colored morsels of goodness more akin to bacon bits than strips. Nibble on one alone, and there’s no mistaking the coconut flavor underpinning it. But add a big fat pile of coconut bacon to a stack of crisp lettuce, cool tomato, crushed avocado and vegan mustard aioli—pressed between toasted sourdough slices from nearby gluten gods The Baker and the Cakemaker and tidily presented in a paper half-wrapper? Talk about a classic BLTA: The sweet, crunchy smokiness of the flakes flows around the produce and merges with the acid of the aioli for a one-of-a-kind sandwich sensation. Pro tip: Keep it wrapped as long as you can, lest the bacon flakes (and thus the flavor) tumble from the sides, and consider requesting extra aioli for a little dipping action. Hmm—maybe you could give up bacon after all? 948 Lincoln Way. Auburn. 530-820-3314. nectar-cafe.com Vegan Deadly Sins’ Braised Vegan Spareribs Good Chinese cuisine is a dependable go-to for plant-based eaters, with its emphasis on fresh vegetables, rich noodle and rice treatments, nuanced sauces and broths, and as much spice as your system can handle. But most Chinese restaurants generally cater to American tastes that veer toward meatier favorites, like General Tso’s chicken, beef and broccoli, and other standards. Luckily, Sacramentans can have the best of both culinary worlds at Vegan Deadly Sins, the downtown eatery that features miraculously meatless meat (largely whipped up from soy and/or vegetable proteins) in virtually any Chinese standby you can think of. Everything from plant-based prawns to chicken to beef is represented here, but the braised vegan spareribs are a particular standout: With a little added mushroom, the boneless nuggets of “pork” deliver tenderness with just a slight, satisfying chewiness. It’s all in the preparation: While the meat absorbs an almost wine-like depth of flavor from its braise in soy and plum sauces, the quick deep-fry bath it receives at the start helps establish the texture you’d expect from a traditional version of this dish. Served with broccoli and carrots, and ready to be spooned onto a heap of steamed rice, the entrée hits the carnivorous spot without a single animal product in the mix. For a bonus, round out the meal with the wonton soup, a fail-safe comfort food with phenomenal wonton filling made from tofu, mushroom, bok choy and smoky vegan “ham” in a rich veggie broth. No sinning here—just a big, virtuous menu of cultural classics. 900 15th St. 916-389-0669. vegandeadlysins.net