Estuary’s menu revamp calls for more meaty mains. | Estuary The Conrad’s 5-year-old restaurant introduces cochinita pibil sandwiches, expert succotash, and plans for a tasting table Estuary, named for its devotion to the bounty of the Chesapeake Bay, is no stranger to well-known talent in the kitchen. The marble-lined restaurant on the third floor of Hilton’s luxe Conrad hotel in the CityCenterDC development opened five years ago under Top Chef stars Bryan and Michael Voltaggio and was most recently led by pioneering female chef Ria Montes. And now, Estuary’s newly named executive chef Arturo Elias is turning the mid-Atlantic menu on its head (950 New York Avenue NW). Estuary Seafood towers loop in lump crab and scallops. Born in Tabasco, Mexico, trained in classical French and Italian techniques, and most cooking down in Georgia, Elias’ style is distinctly global. But somehow, he unites a myriad of cultures onto a plate without forcing fusion, instead marrying different flavors and techniques in whimsical, almost surprising dishes. Take one of his first favorites on the fully revamped menu. Duck breast from Pennsylvania supplier Joe Jurgielewicz & Son is seared and slathered in a chocolate and black cherry glaze. “I didn’t want to call it a mole because I know that we have international guests who may not be as familiar with these kinds of sauces,” he says. The parsnip puree accompaniment is “very French in its preparation,” he adds. Similarly, Chesapeake rockfish takes tips from not only his Mexican heritage, but also his nine years spent in the South at the Sea Island Resort in the Golden Isles. His succotash is made with a corn broth, which uses both kernels as well as husks. “When I was in Georgia, we made a lot of succotash, and I wanted to find a way to elevate it here,” says Elias, who achieves that with blanched and peeled whole tomatoes, an unctuous broth, and a bright green herb oil. Meanwhile, two Estuary alums are preparing to debut respective projects of their own. Chef Michael Voltaggio will christen Frederick, Maryland’s new Visitation Hotel with the opening of Wye Oak this fall. And Filipino chef Ria Montes, 2023’s Capital Food Fight champ, will lead the kitchen at a forthcoming restaurant opening on the Wharf. Estuary Estuary chef Arturo Elias comes to D.C. by way of Georgia. Elias relies on a family recipe to build a cochinita pibil (pit-cooked pig) sandwich. “I’d actually never made a sandwich for a restaurant before,” Elias admits. But he was required to make one for his interview at Estuary. “So I called my mother the week before, asked for her recipe, and it landed me the job,” he says. Paired with burnt habanero aioli, avocado, and some pickled red onion for acid, it’s not hard to see why. Elias’ sides also nod to his home country. Charred baby corn is a take on elote, served with lime aioli, aleppo pepper, and aged cheddar in place of traditional cotija cheese. Even desserts, like the creme brulee-esque banana pudding made with cornmeal sable, features Mexican flair. “As a chef, I’ve always believed that your strongest background will come from your home, but every experience can inspire you,” he says. Estuary The all-new surf-and-turf spread at Estuary. He stresses the importance of letting local ingredients dictate the menu. As such, there’s no longer any shrimp cocktail in sight. “You actually can’t get fresh shrimp from this region, so we didn’t want to put it on the menu,” he says. Instead, Maryland lump crab meat meets a homemade cocktail sauce, which makes use of freshly grated horseradish for a kick. Crab cakes rely on a simple base of mayonnaise, whole grain mustard, herbs like dill, parsley, and chives, and some lemon. But his secret is using gluten-free panko in place of traditional bread crumbs, which not only helps with dietary restrictions but also results in a lighter crab cake. With only a few months under his belt at the Conrad, Elias still has some tricks up his sleeve. He plans to introduce a seasonal tasting option, which will leverage a long, communal table facing the open kitchen for up to 10 guests at a time. —Tierney Plumb contributed to this report