Oct 28, 2024
Finalists in 13 categories for the coveted Jean Banchet Awards for Culinary Excellence were announced Monday, including a new, deliciously divisive category of pizza. “The Banchet Awards are always kind of funny, we always try and poke fun at ourselves as much as possible so we thought what could be funnier than trying to name four pizza joints in Chicago,” said Michael Muser, Banchet Awards host and organizer. “We thought about theoretically, what do we want it to say, do we want it to pay homage to different styles or what … At the end of the day, the panel came up with the best list they thought represented the year for them in terms of the pizzas people are wanting.” Muser, co-owner of two-Michelin-starred Ever, said the categories have evolved over the years into something that truly showcases the city’s diverse and vibrant culinary scene — not just the fine dining establishments or big-name chefs. Muser was out on Friday driving around town to personally tell the chefs and restaurants that they were nominated. Two of his favorite awards are Best Counter Service and Best Neighborhood Restaurant. “The countertop versions of ‘best chef, best new chef’ never really get recognized all that much, and they’re the ones that feed us the most,” Muser said. “I love those awards also because they get their noms, they get to go to the after-party and they get to stand next to Beverly Kim and Paul Virant … shoulder to shoulder with all these great Chicago chefs. They usually fall apart.” This year’s Best Counter Service nominees are Migos Fine Foods, Ragadan, Santa Masa Tamaleria and J.P. Graziano Grocery; Best Neighborhood Restaurant nominees are Bungalow by Middle Brow, Daisy’s Po-Boy and Tavern, Kie-Gol-Lanee and Le Bouchon. The finalists are chosen by an anonymous panel of over 10 people who are food journalists, professionals in the food and beverage space and “hardcore local foodies.” The panel spends the whole year eating around the city and deliberating in both virtual and in-person meetings to narrow down the list and pick the winners. For the Rising Chef award, Muser said the panel looked at the “chef behind the chef” in a sort of spin-off of an old Banchet Award for chef de cuisine. “Second in commands are hugely important to the business, so rising chef kind of came from that award,” Muser explained. “There are chefs who are in the kitchen every night and every day and sometimes it’s that chef that gets out on their own for the very first time.” Up for this year’s Rising Chef accolade are John Dahlstrom of Nettare, Madalyn Durrant of Bar Parisette, Mike Satinover of Akahoshi Ramen and Chris Jung of Maxwells Trading. Jean Banchet, from left, Paul Bocuse and Roland Liccioni, the new owner of Le Francais restaurant in Wheeling, laugh together at a Banchet roast on Oct. 23, 1989. (Chuck Berman/Chicago Tribune) At this year’s ceremony, James Beard Award-winning chef Roland Liccioni, who is best known for Les Nomades and for leading Le Francais with Jean Banchet, will be honored for his 40-year impact on Chicago’s dining scene. “He’s the standard-bearer for his generation, and the definition of a consistent chef,” Muser said. “He never did it to be famous and retired from Les Nomades with a whisper. We’re now throwing him the celebration he deserves.” At the 2024 awards in January, former Tribune food critic Phil Vettel received the highest honor, to which he said: “I don’t think any other awards program understands Chicago so thoroughly.” The winners will be announced on Jan. 26, 2025, at Venue SIX10. Tickets go on sale Nov. 19 on Tock. Other categories and finalists are: Best Heritage Restaurant: Stumara, Soul & Smoke, New Village Gastro Pub & Karaoke, Ocean Grill & Bar Bar of the Year: Nine Bar, Bisous, Sepia, Golden Years Best New Restaurant (open for less than two years): Cariño, Brasero, John’s Food and Wine, Oliver’s Sommelier of the Year: Jelena Prodan of S.K.Y., Valhalla and Apolonia; Kat Hawkins of Miru, Tre Dita and St. Regis Bar; Patti Robison of Acanto; Scott Stroemer of Galit Best Hospitality: Brindille, Dear Margaret, Jeong, Anelya Best Design: Brasero, Tre Dita, Bazaar Meat, Perilla Steakhouse Pastry Chef of the Year: Bo Durham of Mindy’s Bakery; TC Lumbar of Elske; Antonio Incandela of Mariscos San Pedro; Sarah Mispagel-Lustbader and Ben Lustbader of Loaf Lounge Best Pizza of the Year: Pistores, Milly’s Pizza in the Pan, Spacca Napoli Pizzeria, Robert’s Pizza and Dough Co. Chef of the Year: Otto Phan of Kyōten; Sarah Grueneberg of Monteverde; Stephen Gillanders of S.K.Y., Valhalla and Apolonia; Kevin Hickey of The Duck Inn Restaurant of the Year (open for more than two years): Avec, El Che Steakhouse & Bar, Elske, Rose Mary
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