I wrote down an August Facebook post from of couple of years ago. It went something like this: “Summer isn’t over until Sept. 22 so set your pumpkin spice down! I’m not finished with my Margarita yet!” I must agree, why rush long-awaited summer days away. It’s October, so I guess I must give-in and accept the fact that it’s okay to see everything pumpkin when shopping. The usual pumpkin fare such as pumpkin pie, muffins, lattes, bread, soup, pancakes and ice cream have been popular for a long time. Each year it seems that companies are extending the use of both pumpkin and pumpkin spice, and quite often in unexpected ways: dog treats, pumpkin spice cat litter and dog biscuits, deodorant, cologne, lip balm and toothpaste. One that sounds very strange, at least it does to me, is pumpkin Spam! The list goes on and on. When it comes to restaurant menus, many appetizers, entrees, desserts and cocktails (how about a pumpkin spice martini made with the limited edition of Kahlua pumpkin spice liqueur,  bit.ly/4fjMdi3), are prepared using pumpkin and pumpkin spice. Why this craving? Pumpkin spice is a blend of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and ginger. Some recipes call for allspice and mace, as well. More about making your own blend in a bit. Perhaps it is the warmth of the combination of flavors when the temperatures drop; think comfort food and flavors that offset our chillier surroundings as autumn’s weather begins to parade onto winter. Nostalgia plays a role, too, as we connect with memories of past fall holidays, and the anticipation of family get-togethers being planned for this year’s holiday gatherings. Pumpkin spice is a blend of spices, as is any curry. Each ingredient in the recipe stands well on its own; but to bring it up a notch, mixed to your liking in the perfect proportions you’ll be able to orchestrate a symphony of flavor. It’s probably the scent that is most associated with the comfort and coziness of cooling autumn nights. It’s time to get into the holiday spirit with some recipes using these ingredients that are quintessential fall favorites. This is my go-to recipe for a pumpkin spice blend. Pumpkin Spice Blend Ingredients: 6 tablespoons ground cinnamon 3 tablespoons ground ginger 4 ½ teaspoons ground allspice 3 teaspoons ground nutmeg ¾ teaspoon ground cloves ¾ teaspoon ground mace Directions: Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk to incorporate well. Keep the blend in an airtight container in a cool place. Feel free to adjust the quantity of the spices. There is no right or wrong. If there is a spice you don’t desire, just leave it out. If you like a bit more zing, add more ginger. However, be careful with nutmeg since too much can make the blend bitter. Use in any recipe calling for pumpkin spice. It makes the perfect stocking stuffer packaged in a decorative jar. For inspiration this year, I came across a new title, “Pumpkin: 50 Recipes for Cooking with Pumpkin, From Savory to Sweet (2024, Ryland, Peters & Small, $14.99) Hollowing out a pumpkin to use as a receptacle for soup or stew might seem like a task. Once you’ve read the instructions it will be a cinch. And don’t throw out the seeds. Roast the seeds and flavor the seeds. Then, use the seeds to prepare the recipe in the book for pumpkin seed bars with fruit and nuts. The hearty bars are perfect for a quick energy fix. The chapter titles are as creative as the recipes; “Gourd-Geously Good for You” (one-pots, soups and stews); “Too Gourd to be True (snacks, sharers and light bites) “Life is Gourd” (salads and sides); Go Big or Gourd Home!” (pasta and rice); “The Reason for Pumpkin Season” (breads, cookies and cozy bakes); “Pumpkin Spice & All Things Nice” (cakes, pies and other sweet treats). Now, it’s time go out and pick the perfect pumpkin and try one of these recipes from the book. Pumpkin and Mushroom Soup: The addition of truffle oil, used at your discretion, elevates the soup from the everyday to something really special. (Steve Painter, copyright Ryland, Peters and Small) Pumpkin and Mushroom Soup Recipe by Belinda Williams, photograph by Steve Painter, copyright Ryland Peters & Small The headnote says: “This deliciously rich soup is a wonderful, vibrant gold color. The silky nature of the cep (Porcini) mushrooms works really well with the smoothness of the soup and the addition of truffle oil, used at your discretion, elevates it from the everyday to something really special.” Serves 6 Ingredients: 3½ tablespoons butter, divided 2 white onions, diced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 small pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and diced ½ butternut squash, peeled, deseeded, and diced 6 cups vegetable stock 2 cep (Porcini) mushrooms, finely sliced ¾ cup heavy Salt and black pepper To garnish: Chopped fresh parsley Fresh thyme leaves Truffle oil, for drizzling (optional) Directions: Melt three-quarters of the butter in a large saucepan and cook the onions, garlic, pumpkin and squash until soft. Add the stock to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, until the pumpkin and squash are cooked. Take the pan off the heat and blitz the mixture to a purée with a stick blender. In a skillet/frying pan, heat the remaining butter and fry the ceps very gently for a few minutes, until softened but without coloring. Add the ceps to the soup and stir in the cream, then season to taste with salt and black pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve garnished with a sprinkle of fresh parsley and thyme leaves and a little drizzle of truffle oil, if you wish. Pumpkin and Sage Mac ‘n’ Cheese: Earthy sage and sweet pumpkin are a match made in heaven. (Steve Painter, copyright Ryland, Peters and Small) Pumpkin and Sage Mac ‘N’ Cheese Recipe by Laura Washburn Hutton, photograph by Steve Painter, copyright Ryland Peters & Small The headnote says, “Earthy sage and sweet pumpkin are a match made in heaven.” Serves 6-8 Ingredients: 1 pound macaroni A handful of coarse sea salt 1 pumpkin (2 pounds), peeled, seeded, and cubed, roasted* 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons butter 2 shallots, finely chopped 2¾ cups heavy cream Leaves from a few sprigs of fresh sage, finely chopped, plus whole leaves to garnish 1¼ cups shredded/grated Grana Padano or Parmesan ¾ cup shredded/grated Cheddar 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs Salt and black pepper Directions: Cook the macaroni in a saucepan of salted boiling water according to the packet instructions. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Roast the pumpkin following the instructions below, then set aside. Heat the butter and the oil in a saucepan. Add the shallots and cook over a high heat for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until golden. Add the cream, sage and a pinch of salt and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat. Add the cheeses and stir well to melt. Preheat the broiler/grill to medium–hot. Put the cooked macaroni in a bowl with the pumpkin. Pour over the cream sauce and mix. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer the macaroni mixture to a baking dish and spread evenly. Top with a good grinding of black pepper and sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top. Broil/grill for 5–10 minutes until the top is crunchy and golden brown. Serve immediately garnished with sage leaves. Roasting Pumpkin Serves 4-6, depending on what it’s being used for Ingredients: 1 pumpkin or squash 2–3 tablespoons olive oil Salt and black pepper Directions: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Peel and deseed the pumpkin or squash and chop the flesh into medium-sized chunks or wedges, depending on what you are using them for. Tip the pumpkin onto a baking sheet and drizzle over the olive oil. Sprinkle over salt and pepper and use clean hands to thoroughly mix so that the pumpkin is well coated in oil. Bake in the preheated oven for about 30 minutes, or until the pumpkin is tender and starting to turn golden around the edges. Note: You can also add other flavorings, such as fresh or dried herbs, fresh or dried chili, and/or other spices when coating the pumpkin with oil, so feel free to experiment to find your favorite flavor combinations. Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake Recipe by Bea Vo, photograph by Kate Whittaker, copyright Ryland Peters & Small Serves 10-12 Ingredients: 1 pound 5 ounces gingernut (gingersnap) cookies/biscuits ¾–1 stick unsalted butter, melted ½ cup superfine/caster sugar ½ cup dark brown soft sugar 1½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 tablespoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground allspice ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 pound 9 ounces cream cheese 3 eggs 3 tablespoons whipping cream 2 tablespoons bourbon 1  (15 ounce) can of pumpkin purée Topping: 1 1⁄3 cups whipping cream 2⁄3 cup confectioners’ sugar 3 ounces crystallized ginger, chopped 3 tablespoons pumpkin seeds, toasted Directions: Prepare a 10-inch cake pan: greased and base-lined with baking parchment. Preheat the oven to 240 degrees. To make the crust, crush the gingernut (gingersnap) cookies until you get fine crumbs. Add the melted butter — the amount of butter you will need is variable. Test by grabbing a bit of the mixture and squeezing into your hand to make a ball, then releasing your hand. The mixture should hold its shape, but also fall apart when touched slightly. If it doesn’t hold its shape, add more butter, otherwise the cookie will dissolve into the cheesecake, and you’ll have no crust. If it holds its shape too well, add more cookies to absorb the butter, otherwise your crust will be too hard. Press the mixture into the prepared cake pan and pat level. Put the sugar, all the spices and the vanilla into a large mixing bowl and stir until well combined. Add the cream cheese and beat until well mixed and the sugar has dissolved. Slowly incorporate the eggs, one at a time, beating until thoroughly combined before adding the next. Scrape the side of the bowl regularly to make sure everything is incorporated. Stir in the whipping cream and bourbon. Fold in the pumpkin purée until well combined. Pour the mixture into the cake pan over the crust and bake in the preheated oven for 1 hour until the middle is still slightly jiggly and the top doesn’t look shiny or wet any more. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan for 1 hour. Refrigerate overnight. When you are ready to serve, unmold the cheesecake by turning it upside down on a serving plate or board, then turning it upright again. To make the topping, put the cream and confectioners’ sugar in a bowl and, using an electric mixer with whisk attachment (or an electric whisk), whisk to soft peaks. Spread the topping casually over the cheesecake and top with the crystallized ginger and pumpkin seeds. Optional: Scatter toasted pumpkin seeds on top to add a bit of crunchiness or drizzle with caramel sauce for some extra indulgence. Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.