Oct 16, 2024
A single set of headlights approached me on a quiet morning as I cruised down State Street in the darkness just after 5 a.m. The radio was blasting The Bangles’ Walk Like an Egyptian as Susanna Hoffs riffed on that famous line, “If you want to find all the cops, they’re hanging out in the donut shop.” I quickly pulled a U-turn, sliding into Fresh Donuts & Deli, and got in line (there’s always a line).This week on Sunday Drive, we’re taking a Tour de Donuts in Salt Lake City, exploring some of the valley’s fried dough hotspots. Everyone likes donuts, right? Hey, it’s OK that you came into Smith’s for fruit and vegetables. Just throw a donut into the cart first. We’ve all been there.The donut, or doughnut if you prefer, has a rich and wandering history dating back to ancient civilizations. Once called “oily cakes” by Dutch immigrants, many credit Maine ship captain Hanson Gregory for punching a hole in the donut in 1847. The first donut machine was invented in New York City by Russian immigrant Adolph Levitt in the 1920s. Today, every city across America is dotted with shops selling deep-fried dough with sugary icing.While planning my early morning tour, I had a few critical criteria. First, no chains. Secondly, I set a minimum standard of a 4.8 rating on Google. I also wanted small, independent, family run shops open in the early morning hours, with well-worn storefronts that might make you ask yourself, “Should I really be here at 5 in the morning?” There was no shortage of candidates.Ray greeted me with a big “Good morning!” as I walked into the Donut Boy near the Maverik Center in West Valley City. Donut Boy’s showcase featured the traditional glazed yeast donuts, some attractive raspberry filled, and a stunning oversized Oreo donut that looked too good to pass up.“Where are you from?” Ray inquired. “Oh, we get a lot from Park City driving down here for donuts.” I asked Ray if he was the real donut boy. “No,” he replied with a laugh. “That’s my son. He makes me work!”While I came down that morning with a plan, I quickly called some audibles. I had a few fancy shops on my list that didn’t open until later. I decided fancy wasn’t what I was seeking. Expanding my search, I found JJ Donuts in North Salt Lake, just shy of Bountiful, right off U.S. 89.JJ Donuts is tucked into a tiny strip mall between a barber and the Nacho House (which actually looked good, just not at 6 a.m.). The friendly doughboy at the counter suggested the blueberry crumble. I’m a pretty simple chocolate-iced yeast donut kind of guy (no sprinkles, please), but I gave it a try. The crumble mixture was wonderful, albeit rich (as if that really matters), with a streusel-like texture and taste. Heading south on I-15, Google Maps led me to the Donut House in Rose Park, just off the freeway. Nothing was going on in this neighborhood, but still there was a line. I decided to upgrade my normal chocolate-glazed donut with some coconut shavings on top. Decent, but not the gold medal.This leads me back to Fresh Donuts & Deli. Let the record state that I saw no sign of a deli there. And I’m not sure why you would need one. When I embarked on this adventure, I sought the feeling I had experienced in college. A ritual after the 2 a.m. bar-closing time on weekends was to hit a pop-up-like donut shop in an industrial building with an open garage door in a shady back alley. We would get donuts right out of the fryer. I’ve never forgotten that taste and texture.Being my first stop of the morning, I hadn’t learned to contain myself yet. “I’ll take a glazed, chocolate and maple,” I told the owner, as rack after rack of fresh donuts came out of the kitchen. “And a jug of orange juice.” Owned by a Cambodian immigrant family, they have mastered the secret recipe over the past quarter century. Heading back to the car, I gently pulled the glazed donut from the bag. It was light and feathery, warm to the touch, and it softly caressed my fingers. I took a small bite, and the memories came flooding back. The texture. The aroma.Who knew that for just $2, you could have such a memorable culinary experience?DETAILSDonut Boy 2194 W. 3500 S., West Valley City 6 a.m.-1 p.m. daily (open at 7 a.m. on Sunday)Donut House 950 W. 1000 N., Salt Lake City 6 a.m.-4 p.m. daily (closed Monday)Fresh Donuts & Deli 2699 S. State St., South Salt Lake 5 a.m.-5 p.m. daily (closed Sunday)JJ Donuts 15 US-89, North Salt Lake 5:30 p.m.-2 p.m. daily (closed Sunday; 6:30 a.m.-1 p.m. on Saturdays)The post Sunday Drive: Memories of donut shop appeared first on Park Record.
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