Caipirinha bar Cana opened on Friday, September 13. | Hawkeye Johnson Just weeks in, D.C.’s caipirinha-fueled hit Cana already has plans to expand In order to secure a spot at Cana, one has to religiously stalk its Resy page every morning. Online reservations for that same night go live right at 10 a.m. But by just 10:02 a.m., they’re typically all booked up. The highly anticipated, ’70s-chic cocktail and record bar opened along Adams Morgan’s nightlife strip in mid-September. Cana pays tribute to the casual, pint-sized botecos of Rio de Janeiro, where the iconic caipirinha is king, samba music spills into the street, and steaks sizzle. Because of its intimate size (42 seats), Cana only releases a limited number of nightly reservations starting at 5:30 p.m. Choose between two options: a dining room table or kitchen counter, which offers a front-row view of the charcoal oven at work. It’s a hot seat (literally), reminiscent of Cana’s endless-summer muse situated 4,000 miles south. Cana accepts walk-ins on a first-come, first-served basis for the bar and small patio. At capacity, a waitlist crowd commonly congregates out front by the dozens (2412 18th Street NW). Hawkeye Johnson Cana’s crowd-pleasing caipirhinas come in coconut, passionfruit, and classic varieties. Cana already has ambitious goals to open back in Brazil. Co-owner Radovan Jankovic says the cross-continental expansion could happen in the next three years. “We want to show Brazil the gringo interpretation of a Brazilian bar,” explains Jankovic, who’s currently zeroing in on potential spaces in Rio and São Paulo. Cana is a joint effort between Jankovic and fellow D.C. bar vet Marko Bogdanovic. The duo sold their interests in Dupont’s espresso martini haven Residents last year to start Unordinary Hospitality Group, which also operates South American-styled Mercy Me inside West End’s Yours Truly hotel. “As bartenders by trade, we knew we wanted to open a Brazilian cocktail bar with caipirinhas as the driving force,” says Jankovic. The road to opening was anything but easy from there, however. Unordinary’s founding executive chef Robert Curtis tragically died just weeks before Cana’s planned debut in July. “It was an extremely sad and emotional moment,” says Jankovic, who first met Curtis a decade ago while working together at Bourbon Steak. The remaining partners have since brought on Croatian Chilean chef Maximiliano Rivera Papic. Also well-traveled throughout Brazil, Papic comes to Cana by way of Barcelona with a one-page menu full of reimagined Brazilian classics with some Spanish flair (see: salt cod croquetas). Hawkeye Johnson Drinking snacks swing from shrimp empanadas to charred octopus with crispy yucca to a (vegan) ceviche made with hearts of palm. “Cana is not classic or traditional by any means — it’s an interpretation of Brazilian culture, food, and drinks from our lens,” says Jankovic. Papic’s fiery hamachi hits differently by uniting the raw fish with passionfruit and crunchy coconut farofa. It’s a top seller out of the gate, as is his crispy pork belly and charcoal-grilled steak. Opening hurdles came early on, when the original lease was terminated due to structural deficiencies. The team took a ready-to-refurbish space next door instead. A Rio-based designer transformed the slim setup with wooden wall panels from Brazil, disco-chic tile work, and custom blinds that provide privacy from the busy 18th Street corridor. Tucked past bamboo-green drapes, Cana’s show begins with a bustling bar to the right. The starring attraction seamlessly leads to the open kitchen along the same wall. “There’s harmony between bartenders, cooks, and the DJ in the corner playing,” says Jankovic. “There’s not a bad seat in house.” There is, however, a prime vantage point now up for grabs. Whenever a DJ isn’t manning the analog turntable in the front nook, the prized real estate flips into an extra high-top situation. A hand-painted Cana sign, originally conceived for the outdoor facade, gets placed atop the pop-up dining perch. Vintage vinyls sourced from Rio’s famed flea markets get a new life at Cana, spinning boogie, funk, and timeless Brazilian tracks on any given night. Hawkeye Johnson Cana’s retro look speaks to the South American country’s golden era of midcentury design. Brazil is the world’s biggest exporter of sugarcane, and Cana celebrates its namesake plant in its most spirited form. Cachaça, a liquor distilled from fermented sugarcane juice, is a key component of Brazil’s national cocktail. “It’s super easy to drink and brings back memories of sitting on the beach in Brazil,” says Bogdanovic, whose personal favorite of the trio is the coconut concoction. “We’re using mostly Brazilian ingredients on the cocktail menu,” says Bogdanovic. “We’re exploring different flavors, expressions, and aging processes.” Hawkeye Johnson Reserve a ringside view of the open kitchen in the back. Hawkeye Johnson Grilled steak is naturally a top-selling order at Cana. Hawkeye Johnson Cana’s vinyl library will continue to grow over time. Aside from global chain Fogo de Chao, which adds another D.C. locale this fall on the Wharf, the cuisine — as well as cachaça — remains relatively underrepresented stateside. “I didn’t know how many Brazilians there are in D.C.,” says Jankovic. Cana’s DMs are flooded with inquiries in Portuguese, with some saying they set 10 a.m. reminders to book a seat online. The Brazilian language can be heard wafting through the bar on any given night. Demand for caipirinhas in D.C. is so off the charts, Cana already had to find a new cane juice supplier. “The best compliment I’ve got is we brought a piece of Brazil to D.C.,” says Jankovic. He hunkered down in Rio during the pandemic to fine-tune Cana. “It was a slower time over there to really absorb the process,” says Jankovic, whose wife is from Brazil. “Marko joined on trips to help understand what we wanted to be.” With help from a local DJ, Jankovic sourced and shipped back some 1,000 vinyls by the crate load — with more in the collection to come. Jankovic is busier than ever around D.C. these days. Last month he also opened Levantine hot spot La’ Shukran in Union Market with Albi chef Michael Rafidi. Hawkeye Johnson Colors of the Brazilian flag are featured prominently across plates and upholstery at Cana.