Sep 27, 2024
A new sushi takeout spot comes to downtown, the Marina gets a new low-proof cocktial bar, and MacKenzie Chung Fegan returns to duty with a Chronicle review of Tiya in the Marina, all in This Week In Food.A new high-end takeout sushi spot has just debuted downtown, Ebiko (100 First Street), which is an offshoot of a popular Piedmont Avenue spot in Oakland. They offer reasonably priced rolls and nigiri ($7.50 for basic rolls up to $16.99 for an omakase box), made with high-quality rice and fish flown in daily. Regular hours are Monday to Friday, 11 am to 3 pm, and they are also on DoorDash and UberEats.  In the Marina, a new sister cocktail spot to Causwells has opened a couple doors down on Chestnut Street, called Lilah (2336 Chestnut Street). The place specializes in low-ABV cocktails with creative twists, offering over 20 on the menu, including things like Japanese kakigori (shaved ice) cocktails, souffléd-to-order espresso martinis with low-proof rum, and sour-style drinks like the Easy Tiger, made with Cappelletti aperitif, passionfruit, salted vanilla, citrus, passionfruit boba, and egg white. Lilah opens Saturday, September 28, and also has a menu of hearty bar snacks, cold dishes, banh mi sandwiches, and Asian-inspired small plates.Beloved, dimly lit wine bar Hotel Biron (45 Rose Street), down the alley from Zuni, has changed owners, and they're having a reopening celebration this weekend. As Tablehopper tells us, it's a three-day celebration starting tonight (September 27), featuring raffles, art giveaways, and food from New Orleans-inspired pop-up Gentilly Friday and Saturday. On Sunday, the evening ends with everyone getting free dessert. Over on Mint Hill, Scandinvian-inspired brunch spot Kantine (1906 Market) is doing an evening pop-up tonight (September 27) featuring the open-faced sandwiches known as smørrebrød. They're serving from 5 pm to 8 pm, and they're promising some "exciting beers" to go with the smørrebrød. See more on Insta.Down in Palo Alto, noted fine dining spot Bird Dog is closing after service tonight, with owners Robbie and Emily Wilson saying on Instagram that their lease is up, and to stay tuned for upcoming "new projects" in 2025. The Wilsons also closed their short-lived wine bar/restaurant Le Fantastique in San Francisco late last year, suggesting that the closure might not be permanent, and after two years in which the restaurant earned some local and national accolades. Chronicle critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan begins her review of Tiya in the Marina — her first full review in three months, after being on family leave — by giving some brief praise to Hed11, the ambitious Thai tasting menu restaurant that opened in May in Japantown. Fegan praises Hed11 especially for how the servers explained each course and gave it context, but at Tiya, which also offers a tasting menu of modern Indian cuisine, "little to no attempt was made to contextualize the chefs’ vision within a larger framework — or indeed, even accurately explain what I was eating or drinking," Fegan writes. "Each dish was left to speak for itself, with mixed results." She has high praise for the paneer bhurji roll ("I would eat it out of an unmarked paper bag and think, whatever that was, I’ll have five more, please."), and Rooh's butter chicken makes an appearance on the a la carte menu, and is still delicious, she says. But there are a number of ingredients that were mysteries, and it sounds like the service wasn't up to snuff, and some dishes just a bit odd.
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